Reasons for Clipping your horse

As winter approaches and horses start to develop their thick winter coats, many owners will be thinking about clipping. This involves removing some or all the horse's coat using a clipping machine. Every season, there are more and more horse owners wanting the convenience of being able to clip their own horse when it suits them, and with little or no knowledge of clipping and a new machine to operate, many problems can arise. Clipper Sharp Clipper Services have put together a guide to clipping, which we hope will help the novice clipper and give new pointers for the more experienced user.

Why do we need to clip?
The most usual reason for clipping is to enable the horse to work comfortably and without undue sweating during the winter months when their coats grow naturally thicker. Some horses need to be clipped all year round, especially if they are being shown and grow a coarse long coat even during the summer months. This is especially true of the heavier breeds and cobs which, if being shown, need to have their manes hogged on a regular basis too. Horses that are in prolonged work during the summer months may also need clipping, as is the case with polo ponies who are required to work at speed in short sharp bursts, and other animals that are in competition work.

Horses can also be clipped or trimmed with small trimmers for show purposes where presentation is paramount. There is such a good selection of trimmers to choose from now, and with the additional choice of battery operated, they can be put in a pocket and taken to shows for last minute tidying; clipping is no longer confined to the winter months.

What happens if I leave my horse with a full winter coat and continue working him?
A horse with a full winter coat will sweat if worked. This mechanism cools the horse, but if it doesn't do so sufficiently, the body temperature will rise and the horse may even collapse. When the horse stops work, it will cease sweating, but will be wet. This moisture will gradually evaporate and the horse dries off. In order for water to evaporate, it needs energy in the form of warmth, which it takes from the horse. This robs the horse of condition, and can cause chilling, even to the point of hypothermia.

The chilled horse will shiver in an effort to maintain its body temperature, which in itself further depletes energy and body condition. So if the horse is need to work on a regular basis during the winter months, it is in the horse's best interest to keep him clipped to some degree depending on the amount of work that is required from him.

Does the clipped horse need extra protection from the elements? Obviously, the clipped horse will be denied his natural protection from winter weather, and will need to be provided with additional protection in the form of both stable and waterproof outdoor rugs, ideally with suitable shelter facilities in his paddock. During the summer months, precautions need to be taken to protect against intense sun and flies. Again, through adequate shelter. There are also a number of lightweight summer turnout rugs on the market, which will provide protection and keep the skin and hair in good condition and prevent bleaching. It is also worth remembering that clipped horses suffer more from saddle sores and rug rubs as well as grazes, so extra attention is needed in these areas.

TIP - Never kneel - always squat down & to one side. Clip hair upwards for close clip - or downwards to merge in.

When is a good time to clip?
The winter coat starts to form (in the UK) during the second half of August. In September the sleek summer look is going and in October the winter coat is apparent. It continues to grow until the year's end. Generally, the first clip is done in early October, second in November and third and final clip late December or early January. Obviously each horse is different and re-growth should be clipped accordingly. Clipping much later than January is not usually necessary, and some say, can interfere with the growing of the new coat, but again, if you have an exceptionally hairy animal than he will benefit from a later clip. We clip our cobs all though the year with no detriment to coat condition, and if the horse is well rugged this will help the new coat come through and prevent the long cat hairs from growing, a sign of a cold horse.

As the winter progresses you may find you do less riding due to the long nights, shorter days and poor weather. The second clip may therefore be less extensive than the first. We always clip everything off including the hair on legs on the first clip, then leave the hair on legs and saddle patch, especially for the hunters, on the second clip. Thereafter, giving protection, but without the thick unmanageable hair growth you would get if left from the first clip.

When and what should I not clip? Never clip a horse just for the sake of it, if it is a youngster, or an older horse that is unlikely to be worked it is best to leave them with their natural winter coat.

The same rule applies to clipping as feeding - clip according to the amount of work the horse is doing. Generally speaking horses that are not in work do not need clipping.

The appalling practice of clipping foals for the show ring is an unnecessary abuse, which appears to be on the increase. Foals should be kept out as much as possible on the best grass available. They are born with a dense coat to give them added protection from the cool nights, hot sun and flies, and the inevitable knocks, which would otherwise injure their tender skin.

This shows me using a Lister Showman which is operated off a battery pack round my waist. Great for clipping where there is no electricity. These are relatively quiet and give approximately 3 hours clipping time.

Some horses are genuinely terrified of being clipped, either from a bad introduction to clipping, having been hurt by the clippers or even having received an electric shock. If, in the case of a young horse being frightened, although never having a bad experience, it is worth persevering. There are a number of ways of making the experience bearable and in time gaining the confidence needed. This will be dealt with later on. For the horse that is too terrified and proves dangerous to himself and handler it is better not to clip on grounds of safety. Some horses will settle under heavy sedation, but this will need to be discussed with your veterinary surgeon, as he will be required to be present.

For Further information: on clipping, buying a set of clippers and clipper maintenance, visit www.clippersharp.com or contact
Clipper Sharp Clipper Services, Southwoods Farm, Culmstock, Collumpton, Devon, EX15 3JX.
Tel: 01823 681076,
Fax: 01823 681076 or email: richard@clippersharp.com

Article kindly provided by Clipper Sharp